It’s autumn and the mushroom season is back in full swing. At dawn, the lovers of these strange tubers, affectionately called mushrooms in Bavaria, are drawn to the surrounding forests. Getting up early is a good idea, as tasty wild mushrooms such as chestnut tubes or porcini mushrooms are the crowning glory of an autumn menu. This is certainly due to the fact that mushrooms are “umami”. In addition to sweet, salty, bitter and sour, umami is considered the fifth flavor. One could describe these as hearty-hearty and it can also be found in other protein-containing foods such as meat, tomatoes, anchovies, Parmesan or soy sauce.
There are thousands of wild mushroom species, but only about 30 varieties are used in the kitchen. Fortunately, some of the most delicious mushrooms are also the easiest to identify. But what should be taken into account when accompanying wine? Shouldn’t alcohol generally be avoided when eating mushroom dishes? The answer to this can be found in every good mushroom book. Because just as there are inedible and even poisonous mushrooms, there are also varieties that can unfold intolerances or even harmful effects on health in conjunction with alcohol. Mentioned here are only the net-stemmed witch tube or the wrinkled tintling.
The chanterelles, porcini mushrooms, chestnut tubes, birch mushrooms and redcaps, which are known and popular as excellent edible mushrooms, are usually uncritical and are very suitable for a meal accompanied by wine. But in order to achieve proper harmony of mushroom and wine, a few general rules must be observed.
As with any other side dish, mushrooms depend on how you prepare and cook them and what other ingredients are in the dish. Usually the sauce plays the main flavoring role and the mushrooms are additional aroma suppliers. Chanterelles will present themselves very differently in a cream sauce than in a strong red wine sauce. While in the first case a full-bodied, aromatic white wine harmonizes, in the second case a mild, low-tannin red wine without barrique notes can be the perfect companion.
The intensity of the food, i.e. that of its strongest components, must be matched to the wine. For example, the roast with its hearty roasted notes. If spicy spices, such as paprika powder or curry, are used for the sauce, you have to vote even more sensitively. Because the acidity and tannin of a wine do not get along so well with the sharpness of spices. Aromatic, not too acidic white wines such as Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc or Gewürztraminer, quiet with some residual sweetness (semi-dry) could be the ideal partners.
With the renunciation of spicy ingredients and with the use of plenty of butter, oil and cream for sweating and refining, more acidic white wines cut a better figure again. We recommend matured white wines from the grape varieties Chardonnay, Grüner Veltliner, Sauvignon Blanc or Riesling.
Cellardoor24 recommends a white wine from Australia for the creamy-creamy mushroom sauce: 2018 Longview Kühl Grüner Veltliner, Adelaide, Australia
Or a white wine from New Zealand: 2020 Toi Toi Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand
Here are a few more suggestions and ideas
Mushrooms or chanterelles in a cream sauce: The classic preparation when it comes to wine, whether as a base for a tart, a light pasta sauce or simply on toasted bread, as usual with Tuscan crostini. You can underline the creamy texture with fine Pinot Gris or Pinot Blanc or Chardonnay, ideally matured in oak barrels. Alternatively, a vintage champagne is also suitable to spice up the dish and at the same time underline the umami flavors. Or you can pick up on the earthiness of the mushrooms with a Pinot Noir.
The same applies to a quiche with mushrooms: Here, too, it is decisive how mushroom-heavy the dish is? If the predominant taste is cream, eggs and cheese, a Pinot Blanc is a good choice. If the mushroom taste is stronger, I would resort to a roussanne or a pinot noir.
Cellardoor24 recommends a white wine from South Africa for the strong mushroom cream sauce: 2018 Mischa Estate Roussanne Reserve, Wellington South Africa
The right red wine for the hearty mushroom cream sauce from New Zealand: 2018 Elephant Hill Pinot Noir
Mushroom soup: Depends on how creamy it is. If it is rather light, I would choose a Chardonnay. If it contains more mushrooms or even contains mustard, a melty white wine is more suitable, perhaps with some residual sweetness.
For a spicy mushroom soup we recommend a semi-dry white wine from New Zealand: 2018 Ohau Wines Woven Stone Pinot Gris, Ohau Gravels, New Zealand
Risotto with mushrooms: Soft, dry Italian white wines such as Soave and Gavi go well with it. If the mushroom content consists predominantly of porcini mushrooms, you should try a matured Italian red wine such as Barolo (Nebbiolo grape variety) or a rosé champagne (Pinot Noir grape variety). The intense earthiness of the porcini mushroom calls for more earthy red wines from the Nebbiolo or Pinot Noir grape varieties.
Mushrooms in tomato sauce: A combination most likely to be found in Italian dishes, especially pasta sauces. Acidic red wines such as Sangiovese and Sangiovese blends (e.B. Chianti Classico) or Barbera go best with it.
For mushrooms in tomato sauce we recommend a fresh red wine from Australia: 2020 Longview Fresco, Adelaide, Australia
Oyster mushrooms: These tender mushrooms are best cooked sautéed with butter and onions. Oyster mushrooms go very well with chicken, veal, pork and seafood. In Asian cuisine, combined with soy sauce, they are part of a more complex dish.
The same goes for shiitake mushrooms: these meaty mushrooms are delicious and can be found in a variety of Asian stir-fries and noodle dishes, as well as soups and appetizers. Shiitakes are suitable for almost all types of preparation such as sautéing, baking and frying. Fruity red wines such as Pinot Noir from the New World, Merlot or even a young Tempranillo are surprisingly suitable. If the dish is lighter, a dry Riesling is recommended. If soy sauce is involved, then for example a semi-dry Riesling. A Pinot noir-based champagne can show similar soy and vegetable characters and is a good all-rounder for the rest of the dish.
The matching sparkling wine from New Zealand to shiitake mushrooms: No.1 Famile Estate Rosé No. 1, Marlborough, New Zealand
Alternatively, a fruity red wine from Waipara: 2017 Main Divide Merlot Cabernet, Waipara, New Zealand
Portobello mushrooms: They are appreciated for their distinctive meat flavor, which makes them a perfect steak substitute. This mushroom can be stuffed and served whole – grilled, baked or fried or even sliced and added to stir-fries and sauces. Any strong, full-bodied wine you’d serve with steaks, like Cabernets, Malbec, or Shiraz, can be paired with a dish of portobellos.
The Cellardoor24 red wine recommendation for grilled Portobello mushrooms: 2017 Longview Yakka Shiraz, Adelaide, Australia
Dare to combine wines and mushrooms, it can hardly go wrong. Mushrooms are very tolerant and bring variety to daily meals. For vegans and vegetarians, they can become best friends. Enjoy your meal!
